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Thread: Calling all McMaster Carr experts (fill whip and drysuit repair parts)--any advice?

  1. #1
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    Default Calling all McMaster Carr experts (fill whip and drysuit repair parts)--any advice?

    I'm about to place an order from McMaster Carr and could use some advice from the experts to make sure I'm not ordering the wrong stuff.

    Fill Whip
    Just bought this guy:
    http://thedecostop.com/forums/attach...3&d=1312215660

    Currently it goes from CGA540 (oxygen) to DIN. I'd like to add quick releases on the CGA end to adapt it to CGA580 (inert) or DIN (to equalize tanks). Also need to add a check valve since I don't think it has one currently. Fittings are currently 1/4" NPT which makes things easier.

    My McMC order list for the whip is:

    -1/4” NPT QDs: 6537K91 (1 - for DIN) and 6537K11 (2 - for CGAs) and 6537K63 (1 - for pipe T)
    -CGA580 inert gas nozzle: 79215A665 and 79215A664. Do I need a bushing (79215A1) as well?
    -DIN nozzle (getting from Northeast Scuba Supply - 1/4" NPT female)
    -Check valve ( McMC but no clue which to order )
    -Anything else I'm missing?

    Many thanks to Tim for this list.

    Drysuit


    • O-rings for drysuit inflator (DUI - Apeks high profile) and wing inflator (Halcyon and Oxycheq) rebuilds: No clue which sizes I should be looking at
    • O-rings for dryglove rings (Viking Bayonets - the "Stripped" kit here)
    • Barrel bolts for argon webbing - These were the best I could find (91833A134? 92815A115?). I'm looking for the kind he uses here to mount his drysuit bottle.
    • P-valve QD from McMaster-Carr (1/4” 5012K71 and 5012K82)
    • Drysuit glue to glue neoprene booties to trilam (DUI 450) suit (have the Airspeed Press book but it's not where I am currently so need advice on what glue to order)


    Any advice on any of these you could offer would be most appreciated!

    Thanks,
    Ari
    Last edited by gsk3; 08-09-2011 at 07:45 AM. Reason: added info

  2. #2
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    Found the O-rings. Posting here for future reference in case anyone else needs them.

    -Halcyon wing inflator (75 duro vitons)
    -006 (5267T16)
    -011 (5267T22)
    -012 (5267T23)
    -112 (5267T77)
    -204 (5267T167)
    -Drysuit inflator - seems to be the same as wing inflator

    Could still use some help on the check valve and which drysuit glue to buy. Someone mentioned
    Eclectic Products UV6800 as a good product, but I don't see it in the McMC catalog.

  3. #3
    Unified Team Diver scubamountaingirl's Avatar
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    frank can help you. you have his number? he is the mc master car expert.

    ww
    I dont know what i am going to do next, but it will be interesting.

  4. #4
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    No check valve necessary on the whip.
    John Sampson
    Phoenix, AZ

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    Thanks John.

    Wendy - I'll talk to Frank this weekend.

  6. #6
    Fruit Pie the Magician. RIP Mo2vation's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AzTek Diver View Post
    No check valve necessary on the whip.

    Yeah - I didn't understand the question when I read it this AM.

    What would the purpose of a check valve be?

    You just turn off the gas, bleed a half-a-puff into the garage and formerly fully charged whip just unscrews.


    -K
    You've got some new momentum - you better keep on going
    Tomorrow soon will be your yesterday
    You've got some new momentum - you better keep on going
    You've got to move to make it all the way... - NM

  7. #7
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    Lots of folks used to use them in whips in hopes that in case of a problem they would protect the O2 source from becoming involved if there was a problem on the tank end, the problem is that the check valve is a major source of those problems. Two different trains of thought, both ok.
    John Sampson
    Phoenix, AZ

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by AzTek Diver View Post
    Lots of folks used to use them in whips in hopes that in case of a problem they would protect the O2 source from becoming involved if there was a problem on the tank end, the problem is that the check valve is a major source of those problems. Two different trains of thought, both ok.
    Yup, that's what I was worried about. Glad to know lots of people do without (particularly since I found one at NESS, and it's $30 for brass, $120 for stainless!).

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gsk3 View Post
    Yup, that's what I was worried about. Glad to know lots of people do without (particularly since I found one at NESS, and it's $30 for brass, $120 for stainless!).
    If you ever really need a check valve check out ebay under swagelok check valves, usually plenty to choose from.
    John Sampson
    Phoenix, AZ

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    Quote Originally Posted by AzTek Diver View Post
    If you ever really need a check valve check out ebay under swagelok check valves, usually plenty to choose from.
    Thanks for the tip. I've seen Swagelock needle valves well-priced on eBay before, but never looked for check valves.

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    Could still use some advice on the drysuit glue....

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    Quote Originally Posted by gsk3 View Post
    Could still use some advice on the drysuit glue....
    http://www.gamblescuba.com/

    Best universal drysuit adhesive I've ever found. It's worked perfectly every time I've tried it. Never goes bad in the can between repairs. Fast, reliable, sticks whatever you need to whatever you want it to. Doesn't stick to *your* fingers, washes up just plain water, no noxious fumes, available in just the right quantity to do the job at hand.

    Tobin
    Innovative dive gear

    https://www.deepseasupply.com/

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by TobinGeorge View Post
    http://www.gamblescuba.com/

    Best universal drysuit adhesive I've ever found. It's worked perfectly every time I've tried it. Never goes bad in the can between repairs. Fast, reliable, sticks whatever you need to whatever you want it to. Doesn't stick to *your* fingers, washes up just plain water, no noxious fumes, available in just the right quantity to do the job at hand.
    I'm familiar with that adhesive. Last time I used it, it effortlessly patched the hole in my drysuit sleeve left by a cuff dump. I didn't even have to change out of my tuxedo. :-D

    However, this one I'd like to do myself, partly to save money and partly as a learning experience. I fully expect it will be a pain in the butt and leave me with very obnoxious fingers for several days!

  14. #14
    Senior Member b1gcountry's Avatar
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    Check Valve- I don't use one on my fill whips

    QD fittings - I STRONGLY recommend getting enough of them to put one on each of your bank cylinders, and just moving your fill whip from nipple to nipple in your bank. It saves a lot of hassle if you don't want to fork out the cash for a cascade.

    Oring #s, those look familiar. I posted a thread with all the common O-Ring sizes, for future reference. You can find it on DM in the archives.

    Drysuit Adhesive - Go to Home Depot, pick up a can of DAP rubber cement. DO NOT get the water soluble type. This is what I use for my seals when I replace them myself, although, I did use Tobin's method this last time. Clean the surfaces with some MEK before you paint on the glue. Put the glue on both sides and let it set before pressing together.

    Barrel Bolts - Again, go to HD or Lowes, and look for SS Tee Nuts in the pull out drawers. Cost about $3 each. The non SS ones will rust.

    Fill Whip - NESS had the best prices for DIN heads, I also use surplus center for analog 4" gauges http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...name=hydraulic
    Diver Steve knows his stuff!

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    Thanks! If anyone else is following along, here's the thread b1gcountry was referring to:
    http://www.divematrix.com/showthread...zes&highlight=

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